Sortun's Sofra Shines

From the chef of acclaimed Cambridge restaurant Oleana, the Middle Eastern bakery and cafe Sofra shines in its first year. Sofra executes its proclaimed "modern twist on the traditional mezze" brilliantly with an assortment of flatbread panini sandwiches to choose from, using fresh local ingredients from owner Ana Sortun's local Siena Farms, located in Sudbury, MA. A triumph of the rising sustainable agriculture movement, the cafe's menu incorporates homegrown baby greens and vegetables into its salads and flatbreads, using Lebanese and Syrian spices to give items an interesting spin. Seasonal specials such as the butternut squash soup, a favorite among the cafe staff, and sandwiches and shitake mushrooms provide a changing variety of options to choose from. The homemade mozzarella in the spinach stuffed flatbread sandwich had the perfect light, milky consistency, the spanikopita was delightfully flaky, and the hummus bar selection truly authentic. Sofra incorporates a range of cuisines into its culinary repertoire, from Armenian bean and pate to Moroccan style goat cheese to Lebanese croissants to Greek yogurt to Turkish breakfasts to Egyptian shortbreads ... Sofra has it all. The busy regular clientele is clearly not predominately American, a true testament to the food's authenticity. The attractive decor of the eatery has Middle Eastern-inspired designs and low tables reminiscent of the east Mediterranean and Morocco, with a wine shop attached by a glass partition to create a wine cellar-like backdrop to the cozy cafe.

The assortment of delectable bakery pastries are not to be missed - the earthquake cookie is so rich and decadent it's to die for, and the chocolate hazelnut baklava with cocoa honey provides an interesting spin on the traditional dessert. Rustic items such as "Mom's fruit tart" remind of the ties to Siena Farms, creating an interesting fusion of Middle Eastern and New England fare; as does "Farmer Chris' basil sandwich," named for Chef Sortun's husband. The wonderful arrangement of savory and sweet treats is worth the trek up Belmont Street to the bakery's less than ideal location, and it should be noted that the cafe closes at 7:00 on weekdays and 6:00 on weekends, catering to the lunch crowd. Though not cheap for the moderate portion sizes (by American standards) the food is a tier above the average corner lunch shop. The helpful staff lives up to the Sofra name, which comes from the ancient Arabic word meaning dining table or picnic and is synonymous with generosity and hospitality. Sofra is one of Cambridge's best-kept secrets, but not for long.

4/5 stars.