Saturday, March 13, 2010

Kashmir: Newbury (not New Dehli)

We went out to celebrate my roommate Matt's birthday last weekend, and what better way than a big Indian meal?

Yet the resounding agreement of our party of nine was that Kashmir on Newbury Street is grossly overpriced. With prices clearly jacked up purely as a result of its trendy location, the quality of the food itself did not suffice the hefty bill – a $17 entrée at Kashmir tastes just as mediocre as $9 carry-out from an arguably more authentic Indian restaurant in Allston. So while the former “Best of Boston” restaurant claims to have “the best Northern Indian food on the United States!” Kashmir failed to meet expectations.

The service was slow, as is often the case in Indian restaurants, it should be noted, but the wait for our server to appear, then furthermore to bring us the menus was prolonged (let alone the eventual bill.) The complimentary dipping sauces wet the appetite well – try the green sauce, it’s delicious! don’t believe me? ask the dishes! – and the assortment of appetizers were the crowd favorites. The vegetarian samosas stuffed with the undercooked potato and pea mixture was markedly tastier than the lamb-filled alternative, and the chicken tikka was dry. The reshmi pakoras, chicken dipped in chickpea batter and fried, was only a little better, and the seekh keba, hearty chunks of dark meat were more tender but too fatty. Nearly every dish served throughout the night was overcooked, it became clear, including the Tandoori shrimp. The best dish was the Halal goat curry, for which the well-spiced sauce could mask the meat’s tough consistency.

The Kashmir Maharani, marketed as a traditional vegetarian Indian meal served in a Thali, offered an assortment of flavors to try; the Mulligatawny lentil soup starter was too watery and underspiced, and the raita, likewise, was too wet as if the cucumbers had not been drained properly and lacking the desired citrus tang. Similarly the spinach in the saag paneer was too wet (and not spicy enough for my taste), throwing off the dish’s consistency. The sahi paneer korma had a hearty creamy tomato sauce that served well to dress the less flavorful dishes, such as the (surprise!) overcooked rice of the biryani dishes, of which there was little to distinguish the beef and chicken options I sampled. The rustic appearance of the nuts and delightfully sweet golden raisins dispersed in the basmati rice was still less than satisfying, and the carrots were unquestionably bland. The mango lassi provided a cool, creamy compliment to the meal; other beverage favorites included the espresso martini, which tasted like kahlua in a glass, and the sangria pitcher, likely the only “bang for your buck” options on the menu. Surprisingly the mango crème brulee was a hit, with a gorgeous presentation of glistening golden top adorned with candied mango – the dessert may have exceeded our meal.

While known for its atmosphere, the swanky restaurant’s décor still failed to make up for the less than stellar food, and the funky-smelling “hot” towels at the end of the meal was the real cherry on top to the evening.

2/5 stars.

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