In honor of Passover, a tribute to the array of top-knotch Jewish eateries in my local Brookline neighborhood must be paid, and among the best is Zaftigs Delicatessen in Coolidge Corner. Hailed as "ain't your grandma's deli", this non-traditional Jewish restaurant is incredibly popular among local clientele, with a crowd of patrons waiting outside for easily an hour for weekend brunch in the spring and summer. Voted one of the Ten Best Delis in the World by Reader's Digest in 2006, Zaftigs has fast become a neighborhood favorite since its opening in 1997. It's casual ambience and low-key Brookline location is the perfect antithesis to the fast-paced New York deli, but with equally great food.
Zaftigs serves breakfast all day as well as classic lunch reubens and more traditional dinners such as brisket they claim "your Jewish mother will kvell over." Yet in addition to the classic gefilte fish, knishes, and matzo ball soup, Zaftigs also ventures away from the traditional with the BBQ brisket quesadilla and grilled salmon cakes with mustard-dill sauce that outdo cold and clammy smoked salmon. Beginning the meal with bagel chips (though it must be noted that nearby Michael's Deli has better bagels, and quicker), Zaftigs is known for its brunch for good reason. Its challah French toast is incredible, with mouth-watering options such as the banana-stuffed French toast in a vanilla-bourbon batter or the grilled chocolate brioche with raspberry sauce. (Though I found the cheese blintzes a bit bland, everything else was delicious.) The bakery offers a tasty selection of sweets as well, and on holidays Zaftigs busts out extensive special menus. For those following a Kashrut diet Zaftigs is not a fully kosher menu; after all they offer pork sausage and bacon cheeseburger. Still, its corned beef and potato pancakes are some of the best in town. Not to be missed - though anticipate a wait!
3.5/5 stars.
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