Dinner at the Plaza

Had Eloise lived in Boston, it would have been at the Fairmont Copley Plaza hotel. A symbol of Boston's long history of high society, the regal Fairmont holds catered events from weddings to conferences, so the banquet food is top-notch. The menu selection for events has butler passed hors d'oeurvres, both hot and cold options and demitasse soups to choose from; as well as a salad course; dinner entrees ranging from fish, fowl, lamb veal and pork, and vegetarian; and of course an assortment of visually stunning desserts. Despite the challenges of cooking for hundreds at a time - any caterer can tell you it is no easy feat - the Fairmont Copley Plaza chefs execute it well, making it one of the tastier hotel meals one can find in Boston.

At our annual Gala Tuesday night we began with a reception in the Venetian Room, which is decorated with crystal chandeliers and bronze marble columns to create a stately atmosphere. The passed hors d'oeurvres selected for the event were the frenched baby lamb chops with tumeric cucumber raita (a unanimous crowd favorite), spanikopita, jumbo gulf shrimp, and vegetarian spring rolls with sweet chili plum dip. While the shrimp and spring rolls are typical appetizers for these sort of receptions, the Fairmont also offers more adventurous options, such as seared foie gras with Indian pudding, spiced cake, pomegranate syrup and crispy fried shallots, and tuna tartare served in a spoon with a lotus root chip (a glorified potato chip but sounds so much more glamorous, doesn't it?) And of course you can choose caviar - with the "blue-blood" philanthropist guests, the menu selection is an indication of the sponsoring organization's financial standing, and even the food at the Gala signifies standing and sends a message. With the recent economic downturn, foundation and nonprofits are stretched financially even more and a new wave of "modest cuisine" has risen in popularity, as venues find more interesting ways to present the stereotypically boring chicken dinner (at $75 a head in comparison to the $95 rack of lamb, it's understandable and even expected.) The Fairmont Copley Plaza has responded to this trend with "rustic" themed meals, such as the grilled chicken breast with basil, Tuscan white bean and plum tomato stew, which years ago would have appeared dowdy but is increasingly in vogue. The passed hors h'doeurvres, likewise, include some topically provencal choices such as cream of cauliflower soup with morel mushrooms, or crispy polenta and oyster mushroom brochette with red pepper almond pesto. Though I found this considerably more interesting than the blase crab cakes and shrimp cocktails, ultimately we opted for the more "safe" appetizers, to please the masses rather than take a chance on a more risky dish. In the past we've chosen the field mushroom tartlet with marscapone creamed leeks, which had grown cold by the time it circulated the reception (unlike shrimp it does not keep well at room temperature), and the Vermont maple cured salmon bar with lemon and caper remoulade, which frankly was a bit slimy. The lamb chops, on the other hand, are reportedly good every year.

The Gala dinner was held in the Grand Ballroom, the elegant thirty-foot high room with balconies, mirrors, and gilded columns, creating a supremely luxurious atmosphere. The wait staff provides excellent service, well-trained in managing large-scale events and maneuvering serving and clearing while the program, including speeches, films and live performances, goes on during the meal. The salad was the picturesque California field greens with roasted yellow and red peppers, kalamata olives, hearts of palm and shaved parmesan with a light fresh herb and champagne vinaigrette; the dressing is served on the side (for all the calorie-conscious) and the salad was presented in a lovely bouquet-style formation, as charming to look at as it was to eat. In past years we've selected the salad with young spring mixed greens, Belgian endive with roasted baby beets and crumbled goat cheese, which is also excellent, using only fresh vegetables - no wilted lettuce in your salad at the Plaza.

For the dinner entree we had the chicken and mushroom wrapped in puffed pastry with a bordelaise sauce, served with steamed asparagus and carrots that added a nice touch of color to the plate. Though bordelaise (a French sauce made with dry red wine, bone marrow, and demi-glace,) is traditionally served with beef or steak, the rich flavor created a heartier effect that brought out the mushrooms and buttery puffed pastry, so it was incredibly filling. Though I would have preferred sliced mushrooms to the ground mushroom layer with the chicken, the steamed vegetables on the side were perfect, not overdone like so frequently happens, and married well with the bordelaise as well. The vegetarian option, wild mushroom ravioli with fennel puree, sauteed organic mushrooms and and sauce vierge, was also delectable. The hint of fennel accented but did not overpower the dish, as I find raw fennel often does, and the large mushroom-filled ravioli had an almost meaty texture. What made it truly exceptional was the sauce vierge, (which in French means "virgin sauce"), made from olive oil, lemon juice, chopped tomatoes, and freshly chopped basil. This rendition had thyme and chives, nicely infused into the oil to permeate the dish and create a real zing in combination with the lemon, for a light and savory effect. The secret ingredient: a hint of crushed coriander seed adds a certain "ooh la la!" and there you have a mouth-watering meal.

For dessert we had the seasonal berries with mousse served in a chocolate tulip cup, which is surprisingly light as it is mostly strawberries, raspberries and blackberries (I honestly would have preferred even more chocolate mousse), and of course comes in a charming presentation for this springtime Gala. The Fairmont dessert menu also includes such tasteful dishes such as the apricot and peach trifle, the lemon pyramid with raspberry, and the lavendar peach tart. Of course they also have the classic individual Boston cream pie, in honor of good ole Beantown. With their desserts you really can't go wrong.

After the Gala we went for drinks at the bar of the esteemed Oak Room, hailed as "a brilliant gemstone in a magnificently restored antique setting." The dark interior of the oak-paneled room creates an essence of a former era - honestly it feels like dining on the Titanic - with classical piano playing for the patrons' entertainment. A glass of beer from the bar comes with a "complimentary" soft pretzel, (aka the prices are jacked up even more than a typical overpriced hotel bar), so even beer on tap or a glass of wine there can burn a hole in your wallet. Still, the cocktails are first-rate, such as the heavenly espresso martini that's a whole dessert in a glass, in my opinion. Definitely not a grungy dive bar. The Oak Room is the perfect place to relax - with a cigar and a glass of scotch if you really want to fit in - after a long night at the Plaza.

The Fairmont Copley Plaza hotel epitomizes the luxury of Old Boston, from its decor to the fine dining, making it an excellent venue for holding an event.

4/5 stars.