To Market, To Market

One of my favorite parts about summer in Boston is the return of the farmer's markets. Given the array of local growers there are a number of great farmer's markets in the city weekly throughout the spring and summer, bringing the fresh taste of the farm here to brighten our urban life. From bustling Haymarket downtown to the markets in Cambridge and Copley Square, I've visited the lot and seen nice-looking vegetables and homestyle farm-made products at them all.

To find a farmer's market near you visit: http://www.massfarmersmarkets.org.

The Brookline Farmer's Market is one of my favorites. Located in a parking lot tucked away off Coolidge Corner, the market has returning family farms that really get to know their customers. In addition to a variety of local farmers selling seasonal produce, the Brookline market boasts the freshly baked bread of Clear Flour Bakery (featured in my previous post "For the Love of Bread"), excellent Chevre goat cheese, homemade ice cream from Trombettas Farm, farm-raised beef from River Rock Farm, Bob's Fresh Turkey, freshly caught fish, eggs, honey and jams, homebaked pies, Taza chocolate, and fresh flowers.

The produce changes seasonally, of course; in early July I found they had some sweet fresh corn (that will be even larger by early August), decadent heirloom and cherry tomatoes, and an interesting array of less common squash varieties, which I slow-baked with green onions and fresh marjoram in Native American tradition. They also have an abundance of zucchini, from which we made mushroom-stuffed zucchini boats and zucchini "pasta" - thin ribbons of zucchini and summer squash (done with a vegetable peeler) sauteed in olive oil until translucent, giving it a quality similar to Asian rice noodles - delectable. I anticipate more peaches and cherries as the summer continues, and of course pumpkins and butternut squash in the fall. The great thing about buying from farmer's markets is that you consequently end up eating food that's seasonally appropriate, and can thus determine your meal plans accordingly. Following the macrobiotic diet, this harmony with nature helps you to feel better ultimately - after all, not only does consuming lighter foods in the summer and richer foods in the winter feel "right," it also dictates the energy levels (from calorie content, etc.) appropriate for the time of year. A fresh fruit salad lends itself naturally to a summer picnic, while butternut squash is perfect for a hearty autumn soup. And thus you'll never be bored, as your menus change throughout the year.

Now Brookline is just one of many good farmer's markets in the area, but the not-so-secret is that many of the same farms visit different markets each day of the week, so if you can't make it to Brookline on Thursday, for example, you can head to Copley on Friday. The Copley Farmer's Market, it must be notes, has my beloved Siena Farms, always rich in herbs and veggies, and the baked goods include the Dutch bakery's coconut blondie bars (I call them Safari bars) and cookies as big as your face. Pretty hard to beat.

Yet possibly the most epic market in the city is of course Haymarket, which is tucked in between the North End and Government Center and has the widest selection of all. My advice is to go early on a Saturday morning to get the fresh fruit and vegetables before the crowds rush in - by mid-afternoon you can find the peppers looking pretty bruised. But the pricest at Haymarket are really the best - where else in the city can you get two pints of strawberries for a dollar? - and there's room for haggling if you're up for it. Our last trip we made off with peppers, onions, two varieties of mushrooms, squash and zucchini, eggplant, cherries, and watermelon for less than $15. I get a thrill from exploring these markets, seeing all the different stands covered in the beautiful colors, finding the best prices and coming home with a bag of fresh opportunities. For that's what each meal is: a chance to explore new recipes, to experiment, and to create.

Growing Green

When discussing food it is crucial to address the source of the ingredients themselves, as any dish is only as good as the quality of its components. The freshness of produce, for example, can make or break a meal, just as can the cut of meat or quality of olive oil used in the pan, I have learned. Sofra highlights this principle perfectly, as the produce used is all local, which ensures greater freshness (and seasonal appropriateness, our macrobiotic diet enthusiasts would argue.)

Sofra Chef Ana Sortun's farm Siena Farms also follows the community supported agricultural model, which is a small-farm marketing model that provides year-round income for the farmer and "an intimate season-long farm experience for the customer." Siena Farms visits area farmers markets in the spring and summer and participates in a BoxShare membership program, which sends produce-filled boxes regularly to pick up locations at Sofra in Cambridge and Copley Square in Boston. Community supported agriculture is an offshoot of the greater sustainable agriculture movement, which has gained increased attention and growing support in recent decades.

Sustainable agriculture is agricultural production that can be maintained without harming the environment. The aim is to make the most efficient use of nonrenewable resources and integrate natural biological cycles on the farm, ultimately enhancing the environmental quality and natural resource base. This model also helps to sustain the economic stability of farmers and in the long-term helps to fight worldwide hunger in an environmentally-conscious way.

Siena Farms produce is also used by the chefs of popular Boston-area restaurants such as the Beacon Hill Bistro, Henriett's Table, Persephone, O Ya, and Upstairs on the Square. For more information visit http://www.sienafarms.com/.

Sortun's Sofra Shines

From the chef of acclaimed Cambridge restaurant Oleana, the Middle Eastern bakery and cafe Sofra shines in its first year. Sofra executes its proclaimed "modern twist on the traditional mezze" brilliantly with an assortment of flatbread panini sandwiches to choose from, using fresh local ingredients from owner Ana Sortun's local Siena Farms, located in Sudbury, MA. A triumph of the rising sustainable agriculture movement, the cafe's menu incorporates homegrown baby greens and vegetables into its salads and flatbreads, using Lebanese and Syrian spices to give items an interesting spin. Seasonal specials such as the butternut squash soup, a favorite among the cafe staff, and sandwiches and shitake mushrooms provide a changing variety of options to choose from. The homemade mozzarella in the spinach stuffed flatbread sandwich had the perfect light, milky consistency, the spanikopita was delightfully flaky, and the hummus bar selection truly authentic. Sofra incorporates a range of cuisines into its culinary repertoire, from Armenian bean and pate to Moroccan style goat cheese to Lebanese croissants to Greek yogurt to Turkish breakfasts to Egyptian shortbreads ... Sofra has it all. The busy regular clientele is clearly not predominately American, a true testament to the food's authenticity. The attractive decor of the eatery has Middle Eastern-inspired designs and low tables reminiscent of the east Mediterranean and Morocco, with a wine shop attached by a glass partition to create a wine cellar-like backdrop to the cozy cafe.

The assortment of delectable bakery pastries are not to be missed - the earthquake cookie is so rich and decadent it's to die for, and the chocolate hazelnut baklava with cocoa honey provides an interesting spin on the traditional dessert. Rustic items such as "Mom's fruit tart" remind of the ties to Siena Farms, creating an interesting fusion of Middle Eastern and New England fare; as does "Farmer Chris' basil sandwich," named for Chef Sortun's husband. The wonderful arrangement of savory and sweet treats is worth the trek up Belmont Street to the bakery's less than ideal location, and it should be noted that the cafe closes at 7:00 on weekdays and 6:00 on weekends, catering to the lunch crowd. Though not cheap for the moderate portion sizes (by American standards) the food is a tier above the average corner lunch shop. The helpful staff lives up to the Sofra name, which comes from the ancient Arabic word meaning dining table or picnic and is synonymous with generosity and hospitality. Sofra is one of Cambridge's best-kept secrets, but not for long.

4/5 stars.